The videos below are all from
YouTube which offers countless examples on how to tie
knots and perform other Scout activities. If you
find a video that is better than the ones that I have
selected, just email the webmaster and we can update the
video link.
Video on the Seven Basic
Knots ALL Scouts Should
Know
Scouting Knots
and Whipping a Rope
Videos
The Square Knot (Reef
Knot)
The Clove Hitch
Uses: Used to tie
two ends of a single
line together such that
they will secure
something that is
unlikely to move much,
such as furled sails or
a bandage. (The knot
lies flat when tied with
cloth and has been used
for bandages for
millennia.) With both
ends tucked (slipped) it
becomes a good way to
tie shoelaces. It is
also used decoratively.
Instructions:
1) Tie a left-handed
overhand knot
and
then a right-handed
overhand knot or vice
versa. (The Boy Scout
instructions for this
knot are:
right-over-left and
under; left-over-right
and through.)
2) Pull the knot tight.
NOTE: In Scouts this
knot has a special
meaning - it is also
called the JOINING
KNOT. This is because
it is the first knot you
learn after joining
scouts and because it
joins items together.
Uses: The
clove hitch is normally
used for securing
objects, such as tying a
load on a trailer or
truck as a means of
reliably securing one
end of the rope,
especially when used in
combination with a
sheepshank to ensure
tension is maintained.
The clove hitch is the
starting knot in most
lashing knots. It is
very fast to tie and
easy to adjust the knot
for length, making it
useful at belay stations
in rock climbing, where
the belayer can maintain
the necessary tension.
Instructions: 1) Tie a half
hitch around a rail or
post.
2) Tie a second half
hitch around the rail or
post.
3) Tighten the hitch.
NOTE: It is
formed from two half
hitches around a rail or
post where one is
reversed or opposed to
the other. This
opposition causes the
knot to grip against
itself when tension is
applied. It can be
pre-formed in the middle
of the rope, then slid
over the end of a post.
Two Half Hitches or
Double Half Hitch
Timber Hitch
Uses: The
Two Half Hitches or
Double Half Hitch is
commonly used to tie a
line to a post or dock
eye. The knot can slip
apart under high stress
loads so it should NOT
be used for
"mission-critical"
things like tying a rode
to an anchor.
Instructions:
1) After coming around
the post, make an
underhand loop (the loop
goes under the standing
part - attached or long
end of the line.)
2) Bring the bitter end
(free end) up over the
standing part and
through the eye which
you created.
3) Next make a second
underhand loop around
the standing part, and
run the bitter end
through this eye.
4) Tighten the hitch.
Uses: The
timber hitch is used to
attach a single length
of rope to a piece of
wood. This knot is
easily undone after use.
Instructions:
1) Wrap the rope around
the log, then pass the
running end around the
standing part of the
rope.
2) Twist the running end
around itself three or
four times.
3) Tighten the hitch.
Notes: A
true Timber Hitch must
have at least three
tucks trapped against
the object.
Taut Line Hitch
Bowline Knot
Uses: It is
useful for tensioning
lines where the tension
may need to be
periodically readjusted,
and typical applications
for this hitch is in
securing loads on
vehicles, and in
securing [tent] lines.
The taut-line hitch does
not work well with some
modern synthetic lines
that are excessively
slick or which do not
knot well, but works
excellently with most
line.
Instructions:
1) Pass the line from
the load, loop it around
the anchor, take the
free end and loop it
around in a half-hitch;
that is, loop it around
the standing line and
pass it through the loop
formed.
2) Pass the free end
through the loop again
in the same direction,
so that there are two
passes of the line
through the loop.
3) Tie another
half-hitch on top of the
previous half-hitch
going in the same
direction; that is, pass
the free end around the
standing line above the
hitch just tied and pass
it through the loop
formed.
4) Tighten the hitch.
Notes:
Adjust the taut-line
hitch by grasping the
standing line in one
hand just below the
taut-line hitch, then
pull the line against
the load, and grasp the
hitch with the other
hand and pull it the
other direction, away
from the anchor and
towards the load, to
tighten. The knot can be
repeatedly adjusted as
needed.
Uses:
Commonly used in sailing
small craft to secure
the top of the main
sheet to the main line.
The Federal Aviation
Administration
recommends the bowline
knot for tying down
light aircraft. Commonly
referred to as the
rescue knot because it
is used to lift people
out of dangerous
situations.
Instructions:
This knot can be tied in
a number of ways,
including in the air,
around an object, and
around oneself.
The 'Bunny'
method:
1) Form the hole (a
loop).
2) The bunny comes up
through the hole.
3) Passes around the
tree.
4) And then back down
through the hole.
5) Pull the knot tight.
Single hand
method: 1) Grasp the free
end with the thumb of
the dominant hand
(leaving some free
length) and place the
line behind the victim.
2) Cross the free end
over the line in front
of the victim.
3) Twist the hand under
the line and up to form
a loop around the wrist.
4) Push the free end
around the line.
5) Then pull it through
the wrist loop.
6) Pull the knot tight.
Notes: This
is an ancient knot
non-jamming knot and is
considered the 'King of
Knots'.
Sheet Bend
Whipping a Rope
Uses:
Joining two rope of
equal or different
diameters.
Instructions:
1) Take the larger rope
in one hand. Make a loop
in this rope about three
inches long and hold
both ends of the loop in
one hand.
2) Take the smaller rope
and thread it up the
loop.
3) Wrap the smaller rope
around the loop of the
larger one.
4) Tuck it underneath
the where the smaller
rope comes up through
the larger rope's loop.
5) Pull the free end of
the smaller rope tight
to secure the bend.
Notes: The
sheet bend is very fast
to tie and is also
useful when joining two
ropes of different
diameters.
Uses:
Whipping is a series of
knots intended to stop a
rope from unraveling. As
it can slip off of the
rope easily, the common
whipping should not be
used for rope ends that
will be handled
frequently. The benefit
of a common whipping is
that no tools are
necessary and the rope
does not need to be
unlayed. The problem is
that it will slide off
the end of the rope with
little provocation.
Other whippings avoid
this by interleaving the
whipping with the
strands of the rope and
creating friction with
the strands to avoid
slipping. Normally a
natural fiber rope is
whipped with twine. The
size of the rope
dictates the size of the
twine. Any twine can be
used, but tarred two
strand hemp (marline) is
preferred. Unnatural
ropes should have their
ends fused by heat
rather than whipped to
prevent unraveling.
Instructions:
1) The rope should be
whipped a short distance
(2 or more diameters)
from its end.
2) Lay the head of the
twine along the rope and
make a bight back along
the rope.
3) Begin wrapping the
twine around the rope
and bight of twine
securely.
4) Wrap until the
whipping is one and a
half times wider than
the rope is thick.
5) Slip the working end
of the twine through the
bight. Carefully pull on
the standing end of the
twine until the bight
and working end are
pulled under the
whipping (Note: It is
normally necessary to
maintain tension on the
working end to prevent
the bight from being
dragged completely
through and so
destroying the whipping)
6) Cut the twine flush
with the edges of the
whipping and the rope
end not less than half
its width from the
whipping to give the
rope end a finished
look.
Lashings
Required for Scouting
Square Lashing
Diagonal Lashing
Uses: To
bind poles that are in
contact and cross each
other at any angle from
45º to 90º. If the angle
of contact is greater
than 45º, a shear
lashing should be used.
Thought to be the most
secure lashing
available.
Instructions:
1) Tie a clove hitch to
the vertical pole.
2) Twist the standing
end of the rope around
the running end. This is
to secure the clove
hitch so that it will
not slip.
3) Bring the running end
up and over the cross
pole; then around the
vertical pole; and back
down over the cross
pole.
4) Pass the rope behind
the vertical pole and
back up in front of the
cross pole; this
completes the first
wrapping.
5) Take two more
wrapping turns for a
total of three wrappings
and pull each turn
tight.
6) Start the frapping
turns by taking one
complete turn around the
cross pole. This turn
prevents the rope from
crossing the wrapping
turns on a diagonal.
7) Take at least two
frapping turns; keeping
the turns parallel to
each other and pull them
tight as they are made.
8) When the last
frapping turn is in
place, take a half hitch
around the cross pole,
working it tight.
9) Add a second half
hitch to form a clove
hitch around the cross
pole and work it tight.
Notes: The
square lashing gets its
name from the fact that
the wrapping turns are
at 90º or "square" to
the poles. Traditional
square lashing is the
most frequently used and
the most secure form of
lashing. If tied
properly, the square
lashing will remain
tight and secure;
however, as with all
lashings, if any steps
are omitted or done
carelessly, the lashing
will loosen and create a
dangerous situation.
Uses: Diagonal
lashing is used to bind
poles together that
cross each other but do
not touch when their
ends are lashed in place
in a structure. The
diagonal lashing can be
used to bind poles that
cross each other from
90° to 45°. If the angle
between the poles is
less than 45° a shear
lashing should be used.
Instructions:
1) Tie a timber hitch
diagonally around both
poles.
2) Start the wrapping
turns on the opposite
diagonal to the timber
hitch, by pulling the
rope tight so that the
poles contact each
other.
3) Take 3 to 4 wrapping
turns; keep the wrapping
turns parallel and pull
each wrapping turn
tight.
4) Start the second set
of wrapping turns by
going past and around
the vertical pole.
(Going around the pole
allows the direction of
the rope to be changed
without crossing the
first set of wrapping
diagonally.)
5) Take 3 to 4 wrapping
turns; be sure to keep
the wrapping turns
parallel and pull each
wrapping turn tight.
6) Start the frapping
turns by going past and
around one of the poles.
(Going around the pole
allows the direction of
the rope to be changed
without crossing the
first set of wrapping
diagonally.)
7) Take 2 to 3 frapping
turns; keep the frapping
turns parallel and be
sure to pull each turn
tight.
8) End the lashing with
a clove hitch. Take the
first half hitch of the
clove hitch by going
past and then around one
of the poles. Lock the
half hitch tight against
the lashing by working
it tight.
9) Take the second half
hitch around the pole.
10) Work the second half
hitch tight against the
first half hitch so that
the clove hitch is
locked against the
lashing.
Notes: The diagonal
lashing gets its name
from the fact that the
wrapping turns cross the
poles diagonally.
Shear Lashing
Round Lashing
Uses: A
shear lashing is often
used to bind adjacent
poles together. It is
also a good way to
reinforce a broken or
weak pole. A loose Shear
Lashing made around the
ends of two poles will
allow the poles to be
opened out and used as
an A-frame.
Instructions: 1) Lay out the
poles. For most lashings
you will want to lay the
poles side by side with
the butt ends aligned.
2) Tie a clove hitch
around one of the poles.
3) Secure the standing
part by wrapping it
around the running part
in a twisting fashion.
4) Pass the rope around
the poles, pulling each
turn tight making a
series of turns until
the lashing is at least
as long as the combined
diameter of the two
poles (usually a set of
4 to 6 turns will be
sufficient).
5) Tighten the lashing
with 2 to 3 frapping
turns by taking the rope
down between the poles.
6) Pass the rope around
one pole and tuck it
under itself to form a
half hitch. Pull this
tight and make a second
half hitch forming a
clove hitch by taking
the rope around the same
pole and tucking it
under itself.
Notes: The
frapping turns used to
tighten the lashing may
be omitted and replaced
with wedges inserted
between the poles (round
lashing).
Uses: Used to lash
two poles together (like
in constructing a
flagpole).
Instructions:
1) Tie a Clove Hitch
around one pole.
2) Wrap the rope around
both poles seven or
eight times.
3) Finish with two Half
Hitches around both
poles making a Clove
Hitch.
Notes: The lashing can
be tightened by driving
a small wooden peg
between the poles. If
possible force a wedge
under the lashings to
make them really tight.
If the spars are
vertical, bang the wedge
in downwards
Tripod Lashing
Floor Lashing
Uses: This
lashing is used to
create a three pole
tripod.
Instructions:
1) Tie a clove hitch
around one of the
outside poles.
2) Secure the standing
part by wrapping it
around the running part.
(Wrapping the standing
part around the running
part prevents the clove
hitch from slipping
around the pole. If the
clove hitch slips the
lashing will loosen up
from the inside.)
3) Start the wrapping
turns by wrapping the
rope around the poles.
Take a total of 4 to 6
wrapping turns. Pull
each wrapping turn tight
as it is made. (The
stiffness of the tripod
lashing depends on the
number and tightness of
the wrapping turns. As
the tightness of the
wrapping turns or the
number of wrapping turns
increases, the stiffness
of the tripod will
increase.
4) Take the first
frapping turn by passing
the rope around the pole
that the clove hitch was
tied to, then between
the outside pole and the
center pole.
5) Take 2 or 3 frapping
turns. Pull each
frapping turn tight as
it is made.
6) Start the second set
of frapping turns by
taking the rope around
the center pole and pass
it between the second
outside pole and the
center pole.
7) Take the second set
of frapping turns.
(Taking the second set
of frapping turns in the
opposite direction to
the first set of
frapping turns prevents
the rope from crossing
the wrappings at a
diagonal. Unnecessary
crossing of the rope
increases friction
between the strands of
the rope making it
difficult to tighten the
lashing properly.)
8) Take a total of 2 or
3 frapping turns. Pull
each turn tight.
9) Make the first half
hitch of the ending
clove hitch around the
second outside pole by
taking the rope past the
pole and then around the
pole. Work the half
hitch tight so that it
is locked against the
lashing.
10) Make the second half
hitch of the ending
clove hitch. Work the
half hitch tight to
complete the ending
clove hitch. (If very
smooth rope is being
used, a 3rd half hitch
should be added to the
clove hitch to insure
that the lashing will
stay in place.
Uses: To
lash a series of poles
to a set of stringers to
form a flat surface such
as a deck or floor, a
table top, or a road
way.
Instructions:
1) Tie a clove hitch
around each stringer
(rafter).
2) Secure the short end
of the rope by wrapping
it around the running
end forming a twisting
pattern.
3) Place the decking
poles on the stringers
and take a bight around
the first pole.
4) On the inside of the
stringer, pull a bight
up between the first
decking pole and the
next decking pole.
5) Place the eye of the
bight over the end of
the decking pole.
6) Pull tight.
7) On the outside of the
stringer, place a bight
over the next decking
pole.
8) Pull tight.
9) Repeat steps 4
through 8 until all
decking poles are lashed
in place.
10) Tie the first half
hitch of the ending
clove hitch. Work half
hitch tight.
11) Tie the second half
hitch of the ending
clove hitch. Work half
hitch tight to form
clove hitch.
Notes: When
using a floor lashing,
both ends of the decking
poles must be lashed at
the same tine to insure
a firm even surface.
When placing the decking
poles on the stringers,
lay the decking poles so
that their butt end are
in alternating
direction. Alternating
the but ends of the
decking poles will
compensate for the
natural taper of the
poles so that the length
of the decking along
each stringer will be
equal.
Other Knots & More
Figure Eight Knot
Monkey Paw or
Fist Knot
Uses: Can
be used as a stopper
knot; to keep a rope
from unreeving from a
pulley block; to prevent
a rope from unlaying.
Instructions:
1) Form an overhand
loop.
2) Form an underhand
loop around the standing
part.
3) Complete the knot by
reeving the running end
through the eye of the
first loop.
4) Pull the knot tight.
Notes:
Easier to tie and untie
than an overhand knot
and does not damage the
rope fiber or jam like
an overhand knot.
Uses: It is
a stopper knot used to
prevent a rope from
pulling through an
object.
Instructions:
1) Start by wrapping the
rope around four of your
fingers.
2) Once there are three
wraps, remove your
fingers and wrap it
three times around the
three lengths where your
middle and ring finger
were. You can use more
than three wraps (four
or five) for a larger
knot, and if the object
you are using in the
center of the knot is
not fully covered by 3
wraps. Experimentation
will guide you in the
right rope weight and
number of wraps to make
a good-looking knot.
3) Then make three more
turns by passing the end
of the rope inside the
first set of turns but
outside the second set.
4) Finally, insert the
weight and tighten the
rope
